British Army

100% summit success with Topout on Cho Oyu Regards

Message: Dear Ted, we met briefly this year at Everest Base Camp. I (along with a colleague, Russ Lamb) was with the IMG group being led by Mark Tucker. You came to our camp a couple of times, gave us a talk and helped with the fitting of our Top Out masks. Both Russ and I were fortunate enough to reach the summit of Everest on 20th May, using the Top Out system, and we were very grateful that the system worked so well.

Hello Ted,

Steve Giesecke here. We met at EBC this Spring and I used your mask to the summit. It worked as advertised; I hesitate to say my “summit push” was easy; but I fortunately had no issues and was gratefully able to virtually cruise to the top of the world without incident. Your mask was instrumental to my success and, as you suggested, in every presentation I give (I present a picture of you holding your mask) I “show and tell” your mask. As just one example, some fifth-graders I recently talked to, while dressed in full climbing ensemble (until it became unbearably hot and I had to remove my suit), thought your mask was “really cool.”

So, just wanted to say “thanks from the heart, and also from my lungs” … wishing you all the best for the holidays and next year.

Steve.

Editors note – Good on you Steve for the work with the young people. Having a mask as a prop, something people can touch is a great idea. I often get requests for masks for this purpose when ‘Everesteers’ get back. Far better to have your own mask that you wore on the summit.

The Everest Expedition

By Neill Elliott

When planning an expedition to climb a mountain like Everest many factors must be taken in account, if you want to succeed you must plan everything to the finest detail, you must source the best equipment, food and clothing available and then make the best use of these and the conditions on the mountain. 

While making our preparations last year we looked at all the oxygen systems available for our Everest expedition and after comprehensive investigations we decided on the TopOut masks in conjunction with the Piosk Cylinders and regulators. 

At this stage little did we know the vast difference using this system would make, so after a shorter than normal acclimatisation period we got our opportunity to make a summit attempt and five climbers left the North Col and three days later we all reached the summit at 06.40 am, we passed everyone on the way to the summit, we were much faster, fitter, healthier and safer than all other climbers on the route. 

Our speed I simply put down to the fantastic mask that Ted Atkins has developed, we had a similar level of fitness at the start as other climbers, our acclimatisation was similar to others, but our Oxygen masks were simply miles ahead. 

I would highly recommend the TOPOUT mask to anyone who wants the best system currently available. 

Jagged Globe

The climbers who used the new masks yesterday described them as a “major improvement” over the Poisk masks. Both Tore and Fred climbed from 7,000m to 7,700m on a flow rate of 2 litres per minute in just 4 and a half hours. That’s pretty good going for that kind of altitude and they said that the masks were comfortable, with no problems. 

Interestingly, the guys who went to 7,700m did so on oxygen. More news on that to follow, but as the Jagged Globe team has lots of oxygen (approximately 6 × 3L bottles + 3 × 4L bottles per member) and newly designed masks, which are more comfortable and should deliver the oxygen more effeciently (compare the two photos), one tactic may be to climb on oxygen all the way from the North Col.

N.B. Jagged Globe teams on both the South and North sides of Everest are using brand new masks, designed by Ted Atkins and based on a Tornado fighter pilot mask.

Jagged Globe News

Good things come to those who wait…

As the first flakes of monsoon snow begin to fall on Mount Everest, both our South Col and North Ridge teams are back in Kathmandu, where they will celebrate their climbs with a party tonight at the Summit Hotel.

Spring will be remembered as one of the worst weather years in memory on Everest. Our South Col team had completed their acclimatisation, with a night sleeping at 7,300m. On the same day on the other side of the mountain, members from our North Ridge team reached 7,700m whilst testing our new oxygen masks. They had climbed from the North Col at 7,000m to 7,700m on a flow rate of 2 litres per minute in just 4 and a half hours. We were beginning to feel very positive as the reports came through that team members were feeling strong, the sherpa team were starting to stock the top camps and the weather was still okay.

When we had a call from David the following day, we expected it to come from Advance Base Camp, it was from the top camp at 8,400m! Team member, Tore Rasmussen joked over the Satellite phone “We are having a jolly good time here, brewing up, talking and enjoying ourselves.” The other half of the group had moved to what was left of camp 3. Over the next two days, in clear conditions, with very little wind, the team’s patience finally paid off and 8 out of the 11 original members summited. They did so quickly, with both groups topping out by 7.30am. On his descent, Ian Parnell commented that they had so much oxygen in the top camp, they were able to descend on a flow rate of 3 litres per minute.

So that’s another Everest season over. These were the 9th and 10th Everest expeditions that Jagged Globe has organised and the 8th and 9th that have put members on the summit, making us the most experienced and successful British company on either side of the mountain. This year, a total of 12 out of a possible 17 members (leaders and climbers) topped out, despite the bad weather. This outstanding result is a testament to each team’s patience, commitment and hard work, as well as just a little luck!

We continue to run our expeditions with a clear ethos – to make sure that team members are well prepared and to make our expeditions as well resourced as any on the mountain. Crucially, that means the very best oxygen system and lots of it to spare, a high level of Sherpa support, the best equipment and expert leadership. On Everest, that’s what counts.

Topout Clinical Evaluation

New Topout Pod Delivery System

Topout New Flow Controller

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